Cleansing, as many know, the most important step in skin care. Carefully wash off makeup before going to bed, so as not to make inflammation from the accumulated dirt during the day.
Neither quality and expensive cream will not work if it is put on the horny layer cells. In this case, the non-purging is also not enough.
Smooth skin texture, skin tone, no black spots, comedones, acne and post-acne - all of these results are unattainable without purification.
I will not speak further about the obvious initial step in skin care. Today we have a theme, like evolved exfoliants (agents that exfoliate dead skin cells).
First generation: scrubs (abrasive particles)
The famous salt, sugar, coffee cake, ground bone, which are used in the scrubs.
For the body can still be used, but the disadvantage in the first exfoliants seriously injure the skin and abrasives with exfoliation of the stratum corneum violate water-lipid barrier, which protects our skin from all sorts of rubbish outside.
The second generation: acid
To replace the mechanical peeling came acids that due to the high chemical activity of "burn" the top layers of the skin.
Acid initially used only cosmetologists, and not only for exfoliation, but also rejuvenating. However, it was quite tough: to start the process of regeneration of skin cells (ie the development of new, "young"), it was necessary acids "burn" the skin.
Then there are many's Skin funds from glycolic, lactic, salicylic, tartaric and other acids. Many good resources with acids appeared on the market thanks to the Korean and American producers.
Deficiencies in too much acid: not all fit, you can not overdo on the skin, the concentration should be small in composition (This is very important for the fans, "potions", who believe that the home can not be bungled peels worse suites).
About Acid I will have a separate article. I recently like splash mask with acids, which replaces multiple tools's Skin.
Third generation: enzymes
Enzymes - proteins that speed up various reactions in our body. Some of them help digest food, others - with saliva to dissolve, for example, the sugar in the mouth, others destroy the molecules of fats, proteins, etc.
The enzymatic peeling flaking fine: to destroy large amounts of keratin (it consists of the stratum corneum of the skin) takes very little enzymes.
They delicately acids exfoliate, plus much better aligned skin relief.
The first enzyme, which began to be used in the purification - plant, bromelain and papain. They are very much in the same kiwi and pineapple. I think many of you know that the same kiwi and pineapple are well soften beef.
There is a lack of enzymes in plant: they are not suitable for sensitive skin, can cause irritation and inflammation. And if there are on the skin any inflammation, the papain and bromelain, too, will not work.
Even more delicate in the purification of enzymes - trypsin. They also destroy the good keratin, but do not cause irritation even for sensitive skin.
Enzyme Peeling is a salvation for owners of oily skin. Amylase (another enzyme) cleans the pores, dissolves oxides of sebum and regulates the sebaceous glands. Amylase effective salicylic acid.
Before waxing recently used enzyme powder. It gently exfoliates, and for owners of oily skin is painless depilation, irritation and ingrown hair is noticeably smaller.
Fourth generation: bacterial enzymes
There were almost at a time when the trend went on cosmetics with probiotics.
In general, enzymes - enzymes that too. Just chemists and engineers have decided to share these terms as follows: All non-living and relating to specific substances - enzymes and living microorganisms - enzymes.
This "smart" exfoliants. They destroy only the dead skin cells, the rest "on the road" will not be affected, the skin after such a soft peeling and irritation. Good optimize sebum: oily skin decrease the production of sebum, and for a dry, conversely, stimulate the production of sebum.
Everything is perfect in the new generation of exfoliants. And as always, without the "there is one thing" not enough.
The big problem - storage. Bacterial enzymes are not compatible with almost all the ingredients in cosmetics, can not tolerate exposure to air. Therefore sold either in sachets (small disposable package) or in a vial with an expensive vacuum pump. I hope soon to find a solution for mass production at affordable prices.
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