The most basic and common cause of visual aging is dry skin. First, peeling is formed, then an uneven skin tone, there it is already close to visible small wrinkles. Taken together, the face is greatly aged.
Therefore, skin hydration is one of the basic solutions in the whole strategy of preserving youth. And what everyone can do at home, without the help of a beautician.
When it comes to moisturizing cream, the following components are always mentioned that are responsible for retaining moisture in the skin: humectants, emollients and occlusives. They are often confused, their difference is often forgotten. Today I will explain on my fingers what this is and what is the peculiarity of each type of substance responsible for retaining moisture.
Why does the skin lose moisture?
Our skin loses moisture every day. This is a normal, natural process called TEWL - Transepidermal Water Loss. Abnormal moisture loss occurs in three cases:
1) the barrier function of the skin is impaired (for example, lipid deficiency);
2) hormonal imbalance (for example, low estrogen levels);
2) aggressive cleansing of the skin (for example, with alkaline agents), solarium, central heating, sudden temperature changes (from frost outside, come to a very heated room).
Humectants
Their principle of work: they attract water molecules from deep layers of the skin and from the outside. Like a sponge, they draw water to themselves and hold it. They saturate the stratum corneum with moisture and prevent it from quickly evaporating.
Works well in humid climates. In dry climates, it is believed that humectants strongly attract water molecules from deep layers of the skin, which is not good. Therefore, cosmetic technologists, in addition to humectants, add occlusives to the formula of moisturizing creams.
Examples of humectants: hyaluronic acid, urea, glycerin, lactic acid, sorbitol and propylene glycol.
Occlusives
Their principle of work: they create a protective film on the skin, which simply does not allow moisture to evaporate.
An old and time-tested type of moisturizing ingredients. Still relevant for atopics.
Most often, occlusive products are sticky and leave a greasy film on the skin. Many people don't like it. But when a person is faced with terrible dehydration of the skin or pimples on his hands in winter, all this stickiness of occlusives is all the same to them. Because only they put the skin in order in such emergency situations.
Examples of occlusives: petroleum jelly, wax.
Emollients
Their principle of work: "build up" the protective barrier of the skin, replenish the lipid deficiency.
As I have said more than once: dry skin occurs due to a lack of lipids (fat), and not that you drink little water there, these are fairy tales.
Emollients make the skin softer and smoother. In addition to restoring lipids, they can retain moisture like occlusives.
Examples of emollients: ceramides, triglycerides, vegetable oils (coconut, almond, etc.), stearic, linoleic and lauric acids, as well as fatty alcohols.
I hope everything turned out to be simple and accessible. If you are interested in this format of articles about personal care - put your "thumbs up" and subscribe to the channel!
