The other day in a supermarket I came across an interesting cream, where on the package it is written just like that: "Approved by grandmothers."
It seems that thanks to import substitution, the idea of Russian marketing was born - to "stick" grandmothers into almost every product. Recommended by grandmothers, made according to grandmother's recipe, grandparents are involved in commercials. The marketing trick with natural ingredients, you see, is not convincing today or is boring, so they decided to strengthen the sales of products with preservatives, E-shkami and parabens through grandmothers.
In general, I am skeptical about such statements on labels. But at the same time, I can't say that some "grandmother-approved" care products are bad without checking, right?
We turn to our hand cream "Cloudberry with honey" from LLC "Russian Cosmetics". The price is ridiculous, 48 rubles for a volume of 75 ml. This volume is enough for two winters.
What interested me in the cream
Not at all at its cost. And not with the phrase on the Granny Approved label. There is also a funny blooper: the cream is declared as nutritious, and at the bottom there is a postscript "Maintains the moisture balance of the skin", although nourishing creams primarily restore lipids.
Cloudberry interested me. There is almost nothing to find information about cloudberry extracts in cosmetics, although the berry is very interesting!
It grows in the northern regions, mainly in wetlands. In such conditions, any vegetation must have a serious biochemical composition.
Many resources have written nonsense about cloudberries, to put it mildly. For example, that there is more provitamin A in it than in a carrot, in fact it is not so. IN serious research about cloudberries the following is known:
1) it has a decent content of vitamin C;
2) ellagic acid (accelerates wound healing, and there is evidence that it can suppress the development of heart disease and cancer) it contains more than strawberries; although in many sources there was an opinion not confirmed by research that strawberries are the champion in the concentration of this acid;
3) a very strong antioxidant: if cosmetics are left in the open sun and forgotten for a couple of hours, then there is a high probability that it will not deteriorate;
4) suppresses Staphylococcus aureus and some strains of yeast-like fungi: in other words, it makes sense to look for cloudberry shampoo if you can not cope with yellowish dandruff.
To summarize, cloudberries are a cool ingredient.
We analyze the composition of the cream and look for cloudberries
Moving on to my favorite part. For many, it will be boring, so scroll down if you are interested in the final opinion about the cream :-)
Now we will look for cloudberries in the composition and briefly go over the rest of the ingredients, "approved by grandmothers". For newcomers: the components in the composition are indicated on the labels in descending order of concentration. Further in the text, the place of the ingredient in the composition will be indicated in brackets.
After the water (1) we have mineral oil (2). This is completely normal in creams for damaged skin. In healing products for injured skin, the concentration Paraffinum Liquidum (i.e. mineral oil) can reach 90% in the composition.
Mineral oil does not oxidize and does not clog the mouth of the sebaceous glands. Simply put, not comedogenic. But it creates such a powerful film on the skin that it will not let sweat through. However, nothing threatens our hands.
Glycerin is next in the composition (3) and oil-in-water stabilizer glyceryl stearate (4). This is sad, because glycerin is insidious and attracts moisture from wherever it can, from the room or the outer layer of the skin. That is, as a nourishing cream that can be applied to your hands before going to bed, I would hardly recommend it, especially if the heating in the bedroom is working to its fullest.
Stearic acid is next on the list. (5)that prevents the cream from spreading. Well, for such a cheap cream, in principle, there are five predictable components. It turns out that the grandmothers approved it. Okay, we are looking for cloudberries further.
Potassium emulsifier cetyl phosphate (6) needed to stabilize oils that are difficult to "get along" in the aquatic environment. To be sure to make oil and water friends - added fat-soluble cetearyl alcohol (7) and caprylic triglyceride (8)which also softens the skin as a bonus.
Next - Vaseline (9), a famous silicone in hair conditioners cyclopentasiloxane (10) and urea. All this softens the skin.
Then it comes with beeswax (11). It creates a protective film on the skin that retains moisture, softens the epidermis and does not mix with our lipids (i.e. not comedogenic). Has a healing effect.
The next component is dimethicone (12), gives the texture of the cream evenly distributed over the skin and makes the product economical in consumption (I already wrote about this). Safe emulsifying agent sorbitan caprylate (13).
And finally there is the component that appears on the label. True, honey extract (Mel Extract, 14). In the composition of care products, honey is used as a nourishing and moisturizing component; it is useful not only for the skin, but also for the hair. It is effective in products for aging or frost-damaged skin, as an antioxidant. And yes, there are many people who are allergic to it, so the concentration of honey extract in normal creams should be modest, no more than 5%. Judging by the place in the composition, everything is as it should be!
Well, here we come to the most interesting. Unfortunately, this is not a cloudberry. It was replaced with sea buckthorn oil - Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil (15). Cloudberry and sea buckthorn berries are slightly similar in antioxidant properties and color (plant pigments are similar). But they differ greatly in biochemical composition.
Next comes panthenol, vitamin E, preservatives and, at the very end, perfume.
Unfortunately, there is no cloudberry extract in the cream. It is clear that for such a price, the royal berry is unlikely to be present in the composition. But it's a sin to ignore the tales on the label.
My opinion
The cream is absorbed very quickly, there is not even a feeling of film. Does not leave any fat content.
Nice smell: at first it smells like berry yogurt, after a couple of minutes the smell becomes a little soapy, but what is most interesting - the aroma of propolis is caught a little.
After applying the cream, there is no feeling of hydration or nutrition. As if she hadn't smeared her hands at all.
In principle, there is a place to be on the shelf: you will not become much poorer with a purchase, but it will help out if your hands are chapped (almost like Zazhivin, only not greasy and without awful perfume). If you have friends who work at car washes and often come in contact with aggressive chemicals, then advise them to get such a cream for the winter. They will thank you.
More, in principle, there is nothing to say about this cream. Who was too lazy to read all this, I repeat an important point: no cloudberries.
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