I'm sure you haven't heard much about hawthorn in perfume. He's like a secondary midfielder on the pitch, but useful. Constantly passes the scoring pass to the main note in the perfume, striking the gates of our heart with an olfactory goal.
The scent of blooming hawthorn, without any other notes, hardly any of you wore. The fact is that when a plant blooms, it smells very unpleasant, the flowers themselves contain high concentration of dimethylamine, whose smell is very similar to rotten fish on a street market in hot the weather.
But in perfumery compositions, hawthorn in combination with other ingredients gives a very unusual, delicate and attractive aroma.
Slightly tart, with "powdered molasses" peculiar only to hawthorn. Even the most sonorous and volatile aromas (for example citrus) hawthorn softens and is able to make from the most modest olfactory pyramid a complimentary and slightly intimate scent.
The hawthorn was played on perfume compositions created in honor of famous femme fatale. For example, La Belle Helene by Bertrand Duschafour: the perfume is dedicated to Helena the Beautiful, for whose heart they led a stern and the bloody struggle of the Hellenes with the Trojans, he very beautifully beat the pear, adding several other notes to the composition, where the hawthorn was the soloist. The result is a ripe, slightly sweet chypre pear, in which there is not a hint of chemistry.
But I promised you to suggest budget options for a beautiful-sounding perfume, where you can get acquainted with the scent of hawthorn. There aren't many of them, but they all deserve your nose's attention ;-)
1. Vaniglia Bianca Nature's
Many people are used to thinking that perfume under 3000 rubles is a natural chymosis and an olfactory loop on the neck that tightens the throat and makes it impossible to breathe.
This is far from the case. Let's put aside the talk about the fact that fragrances for perfume companies cost three kopecks (as well as creating a formula), and most of all we overpay not for luxury, but for a niche - the cosmic size of the added value for a semi-dirty fragrance in small volumes production.
Let me show you a real example from the Italian brand Nature's.
The aroma will definitely not leave anyone indifferent. In summer it is terribly loud that a headache will hurt in hot weather. But on a cool evening (especially in autumn) it opens up very beautifully: natural non-confectionery vanilla, moderately bitter and viscous (here the hawthorn plays its "shadow role"). A little rum-cognac shades, a little sweetness creeps up a couple of hours after the perfume has been applied (this is already sandalwood making itself felt).
I’m sure if it weren’t for the hawthorn, the aroma of natural vanilla on a woody resinous substrate would hardly have come out.
2. Hermessence Cuir d'Ange
"Angel Skin" by Jean-Claude Ellen, head perfumer at Hermes Haute Couture. Back in 2004, when he was just starting his career at Hermes, he got acquainted with the technology of tanning the signature leather of the Fashion House and was just crazy about the smell that was in the room.
For 10 years, he tried to recreate the very smell of tanned leather that reminded him of unusual flowers, unlike anything else. This is how the composition Cuir d'Ange appeared.
The scent of a bonfire, covered with goat's milk. Sweetish violets with a slightly rough aroma of a punk leather jacket, here hawthorn is already playing to its fullest.
Associations are an oxymoron: gentle melodic punk rock, cultured snapper, feminine alpha male, vulnerable the biker who was repairing his Harley got smeared all over in oil, in addition spilled kumis on his jacket and quietly burst into tears.
3. Sonia Rykiel Rykiel Rose
It's not just a rose here. And to call it non-standard - to put it mildly. There is a whole blooming garden here on a hot spring day!
Rose is not even a keynote here in fact. There are a lot of honey-tart shades from hawthorn, sour pomegranate, Bulgarian rose oil, lychee, peonies and cloves. All this results in a balanced and light aroma. Cool for the summer!
That, perhaps, is all. There are many more interesting aromas with hawthorn, but the price for a small bottle starts at 8,000 rubles. If you know more budget options with hawthorn - suggest in the comments ;-)
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