Material large. I describe how the oil to the skin, which of them should pay attention, and why the same oil can be different (it's not marketing). Also I tell what oil in cosmetics suitable for oily skin, and that the network is walking the myth that it is not suitable for oil.
Who are too lazy to read it all - you can save yourself a note or just swipe down in the first comments on the article give it a summary (abstract).
But it is better if you will read carefully all completely to questions of oil fell off in the future.
The first thing to remember: the oil is very important in cosmetics and required any type of skin. Without oil our lipid barrier have hard times.
Why oil? Briefly
Dry skin - to moisturize, protect and start the upgrade process of the epidermal cells.
Oily skin - to remedy the lack of linoleic acid. Indeed, one of the main causes of dermatitis, acne and chronic rash / inflammation - the lack of linoleic acid.
The importance of oil - in the presence of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids
Skin, if someone does not know, consists of three layers: the epidermis, dermis and fat. With the external environment interacts epidermis. This layer - our defender.
But too few layers of the epidermis. The basal layer of the epidermis - it is such a "brick factory", which made the keratinocytes. As keratinocytes maturation tend to the skin surface, the cells rush to beds. The uppermost layer is filled with keratinocytes protein (keratin) and lose their nucleus. So they become corneocytes - those same "bricks" from which built a protective wall of the body. It will not pass through the dust particles, sand, acids, microorganisms, and other elements of the environment, which can infect our blood and generally destroy the body.
Brick wall of corneocytes - a horny cell layer. To our wall was resistant to attack and not to destroy, it is necessary for high-quality cement between the bricks.
In the role of cement acts lipid barrier. It is called a lipid-protein structure that connects the corneocytes.
The composition of such a "cement" includes water and lipids (fats) three kinds: cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids. For a healthy and normal skin proportion of the three types of lipids is as follows - 1: 1: 1. Any change in proportion leads to a serious disruption of the lipid barrier. And because of this, our skin: it becomes vulnerable to bacteria, inflamed, dried, can make dehydration, and may even become hypersensitive.
The most unpleasant - when lipid layers form a "hole" through which moisture evaporates quickly and freely pass microorganisms. So you can turn into a normal skin sensitive and allergic to earn.
Hopefully, the introductory part above, you understand, tried to explain the maximum available. So, the oil rich in saturated and unsaturated fats, which are necessary to restore the lipid barrier (or to maintain it in good condition).
Just remember one thing: with age, the skin is no longer able to produce certain fatty acids, which are in oils, it is necessary to compensate for this deficiency and restore the lipid barrier.
Oil - it is not only emollients (ie moisturizing and skin softening agents), but also the power supply to the skin.
Work oil on the skin
They work as emollients: covered skin film, which does not give the lipid barrier to lose moisture, protects the skin and wins for her time to recover. It is worth to remember: working as emollients, base oils do not create the greenhouse effect on the skin as opposed to mineral oils. Simply put, base oils give the skin to breathe, despite the fact that it is covered with foil.
Oil smoothes the skin's surface. This is not just a beautiful aesthetic effect. Oils soften the horny scales fill the empty space between them, thereby leading to normal lipid barrier and increasing the cohesive strength of flakes. The skin not only becomes smoother, so she strengthens the protective layer of the epidermis.
The high content of unsaturated fatty acids in the composition of oils - this is good not only for the restoration of the lipid barrier. Due to such structure of the lipophilic oil are good conductors of other active ingredients in cosmetics.
And the last important detail in oils: if our body can not produce on their own, some fatty acids that make up the deficit of oil. We are talking about the omega-3, omega-6, omega-7 and omega-9 acids.
In addition, they give the skin phytosterols and vitamins that will not let her look tired and aging, terpenes, sterols and tocopherols (vitamin E).
Why is the same oil can be different
It does not always desire of the manufacturer to make high margins and profit. The cost price of the same oil may be very different.
Banal reasons - technical equipment manufacturing, sterilization and disinfection is generally the most expensive item of expenditure.
Unbanal reasons - a method for producing an ingredient from which quality depends. However, shea butter (shea butter) it is obtained from the ripe nuts in the rainy season, and only with old trees. The rainy season - a short interval, and one tree can give about 5 kg of oil per year. Naturally, this oil will be more expensive than the next option - to collect a young tree nuts, grind and pour hexane. So it is possible to receive tons of shea butter, but the quality will be much inferior to that obtained in conventional manner.
Essential fatty acids in oils: how they work, and what oils which contain more than
It belongs to the family of omega-acids. They are important for the skin. As I said above, our body is unable to synthesize their own. Each omega-acid works with the skin in different ways. I considered the most basic of them: from linoleic to oleic acid.
Oleic acid (omega-9)
Its mission: to moisturize and improve the skin permeability of getting there useful active components.
One of the essential fatty acids, which makes our skin soft and moisturized. It is enhancer - what makes the lipid barrier impermeable. Penetrates the skin deeper than linoleic acid, both of them in creams and serums are important for lipid barrier.
Oleic acid - an ideal base for massage oils. High concentrations in camellia oil (84%) and hazelnut (77%).
And:
- 72% in olive oil (but only in the serum and moisturizing creams, and not in the oil, which is intended for frying);
- 70% in the oils and almond marula;
- 68% of apricot oil;
- 60% avocado oil;
- 57% in macadamia oil;
- 55% in oil shi;
- 46% argan oil.
Linoleic acid (omega-6)
Its task: to recover the lipid barrier and ensure its strength, and to reduce moisture loss in the skin.
In healthy skin ratio of linoleic and oleic acid is 1 to 1.4.
Lack linoleic acid leads to the fact that our skin is a revolving door for microbes. Acne and acne in adolescents are connected with the lack of linoleic acid in the skin.
Furthermore, because of the low content of linolenic acid in the lipid barrier water evaporates, and the skin then becomes rough and dry. Worse - when it becomes dehydrated and with hyperkeratosis (skin seals).
Oily skin is important balance of linoleic acid to gamma-linolenic and dry - with oleic acid.
Incidentally, the combination of linoleic acid to gamma-linolenic able to deal with eczema and skin keratinized areas.
Most found in evening primrose oil (75%) and grape seed (72%). And:
- 65% in sunflower oil (not to be confused with those which place the kitchen);
- 56% of hempseed oil;
- 47% in oil, black currant;
- 45% in oil moskety roses;
- 34% of sea buckthorn oil;
- 33% of Baobab oil and Argan.
Gamma-linolenic acid (omega-6)
Its task: to treat eczema and other skin diseases, as well as to suppress skin inflammation.
One serious acids in restoring a damaged lipid barrier, and the best one oily skin. Gamma-linolenic acid is now being actively used in the treatment of itching, inflammation, and someone even get rid of psoriasis (this is a strong statement, but consult a dermatologist still need this question).
Boasts a high content of gamma-linolenic acid may be only three oils: borage (17-21%), blackcurrant (15-20%) and evening primrose (7-10%).
Alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3)
Its mission: to speed up the renewal of skin cells, thereby improving the complexion and make it younger.
Along with retinoids, peptides and niacinamide enables communication between cells. This helps the cells carry out normal metabolism and updated faster.
Oil with alpha-linolenic acid are excellent for mature and tired skin. Such oils in cosmetics - one of the effective components in the anti-aging care. Most alpha-linolenic acids in oils cranberry concentrated (33%), rose moskety (32%), sea buckthorn (31%), hemp (16%) and black currants (13%).
Palmitoleic acid (omega-7)
Its mission: to update quality cells mature and dry skin, restore its elasticity.
The lipids in our skin it a bit, about 4%. But this is one of the omega-7 group of the most valuable acids. Solves the same problems as oleic acid, also it penetrates deep into the skin, but still able to restore the elasticity of the skin (and that oleic acid can not boast).
Palmitoleic acid is a luxury's Skin products for hair, she's very valuable component in terms of the regeneration of the scalp cells and hair nourishing.
It has long been Japanese scientists proved that women with 20 years begins to decline gradually palmitoleic acid concentration in the sebum. And by 50 years of its content is reduced by half. So fill this acid in the body oils - important! As external means and propivaya additives.
Most palmitoleic acid contained in sea buckthorn oil (33%) and macadamia oil (20%). All. Longer such a high concentration can not boast of no oil in the world. These acids are more oil avocado, but there is a modest concentration, only 9%.
There is the family of omega-9 erucic acid. It is contained in large quantities in rapeseed and mustard oils. Clueless in the industry and are toxic to humans: does not split in water, well it accumulates in the body, which can lead to malfunction of the cardiovascular system. The crude oil with high erucic acid content are banned in the European Union, and in our country of mustard oil said GOST 8807-94: in foods where use mustard oil, erucic acid content must not exceed 5%.
Why erucic acid deserves attention? And here's why. For example, borage oil useful in the treatment of atopic dermatitis as evening primrose oil. Only in evening primrose oil is no erucic acid, while borage oil is there, even if only in small concentrations (2-3%). So why do we then use borage, when it can be replaced by a safer option for the body ?!
It is today we have only considered unsaturated fats. If the topic is interesting and relevant to you - put your finger up, so I knew I continue to this column or not. After all, there is another category of oil - saturated acids in the composition, with a high content tocopherols (vitamin E), stable and unstable to daylight, etc. Torment read one article :-)
