Quite often I hear from many people that the spirits do not go the same as before, we began to save on raw materials. And the fifth Chanel became worse, and the Angel Mugler wrong. To transfer the claim to the perfume can be infinite.
The question: "Why is not my favorite perfume has changed?" - has long been an answer. This often happens with popular flavors, and the problem is not to change your sense of smell with age (although this may be). And not in the fact that manufacturers have to cheat or do you sell a fake.
The fact that some components prohibit the use in perfumery.
There is such an organization - The International Fragrance Association or (abbreviated - IFRA). This is an international Association of Perfumery and flavors, which regulates standards in the perfumery industry. It was she who introduces prohibitions or restrictions on the use of about 90 components in the perfume.
The association was founded in 1973, but in 2010 came the most serious and fatal amendment №43, which caused a huge impact on the perfume market and, of course, for our favorite flavors. Although perfumers and made sure that it did not affect the flavor.
Bans were not created from scratch: in the 70s on the requirements of Greenpeace banned natural white musk and amber, replace them with artificial ingredients. White musk natural origin produced by glands in males of some species of mammals: muskrat, muskrat, deer, musk deer, and others.
For example, to produce 1 kg of white musk, it was necessary to kill 40 individuals, which could lead to the disappearance of some mammals. Ambergris same (I think many people know about it) is formed in the digestive system of sperm whale. It is this fragrance was once considered to be the most persistent.
After the ban perfumers began to use synthetic musk based on nitroglycerin, which will soon also banned after proved its toxicity.
In 2010, after the directive №43 banned ingredients that cause allergies and drug addiction, as well as plants, endangered.
The ban came: Citrus oil, jasmine and tsiberin, sandalwood, moss some rare species of oak (replaced Amyris wood).
The ingredients are completely banned: Absolutes fig leaves, peru balsam in the form of primary, ginger-Kastusyou, rosin, melissa, santolina, elecampane, toluene, boldo leaves, Mari oil, butter and jelly Massoia, Musk Ambrette.
Limited use (in brackets - the maximum share of the fragrance): Tea leaf extract (0.01%), absolute, jasmin sambac (0.25%), Storax (0.6%), oppolonaks (0.6%), grapefruit oil (4%), bergamot oil (0.4 %), lemon essential oil (2%) verbena (0.05%), peru balsam (0.03%), ylang-ylang (0.05%), cumin oil (0.4%), anise (0.1%), large-jasmine absolute, (0, 04%), rue oil (0.15%), angelica root extract angelica (0.8%), oak moss extract (0.02%), wood mosses (0.02%), lime essential oil (0.7%), oil of bitter orange (1.25%), butter and absolutes Marigolds (0.01%), coumarin (0,1%).
As you can see, natural ingredients ban does not stop there. Barred some synthetic components such as:
1) heliotrope, which is part of spicy-floral fragrances;
2) hydroxycitronellal - synthetic lily replacer flavor and lily of the valley;
3) kvinolon - similar flavor of vetiver, moss and earth. Who is allowed to use - no more than 3%.
After all prohibitions suffered very much beloved and legendary flavors of the many I have already written on your channel. Nina Ricci L'Air du TempsFor example, after all the prohibitions reformulated for the worse.
Most of all, I think, suffered CHANEL brand, where jasmine loved to add to their aromas, and CHANEL №5 It was even on the verge of extinction.
The ban affected such flavors as guerlain Mitsouko, Dior J'Adore L'Absolu Pure Poison Elixir, Miss Dior Cherie, Estee Lauder Beautiful Love, Dolce & Gabbana Light Blue and many other masterpieces. It's not listed, because, for example, oak moss was a member of chypre fragrances.
Some flavors manufacturers laid off, looking for some permitted synthetic substitute that losses were minimally noticeable to customers. However, our sense of smell is difficult to cheat. Everyone who was able to face the perfume masterpieces of 70-90-ies, in one voice say that the modern versions "are not what they used to", steel boring, less resistant, etc. etc. However, few people know that it turned out not to save or because wherever you spit - everywhere fake (it is generally a special sort of crazy myths in perfumery).
But it is important to note! In spite of all the prohibitions and reformulation of perfumes, prices have not changed, though natural ingredients are expensive, especially white musk and amber. Synthetic substitutes, of course, cheaper (or even several times cheaper). But let's consider the fact that the search component allowed (and even components) perfumers have done a great job and spent a lot of money for this.
The next time you touch on the subject inside out fakes. Yes, many will say that in perfumery networks unprofitable to sell fake: brands terminated contracts, the impact of the store's reputation, legal costs, etc. But for some reason forget to tell about one important point: to produce a fake - it's expensive, and some well-known brands buy from the same manufacturer bottles, for the development of molds unique bottle - a very expensive pleasure. If you are interested in this topic - put a "thumbs up" and subscribe to the channel, so as not to miss in the film.
