Retinol and its derivatives in cosmetics - a powerful thing. However, they are loved as much as hate others. One they save in getting rid of wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, acne tends to prevent, improve turgor. Others they do podlyanku as dryness and education dermatitis, dangerous with prolonged exposure to the sun, unpredictable behavior with sensitive skin, and completely contraindicated in use during pregnancy.
This article will try to tell you everything you need to know about these forms of vitamin A.
Retinol and retinoids - what is the difference
The authors of many materials often confused about the terminology and erroneously taken as retinoids retinol. I will try to explain as simply the difference between the two.
Retinol - a true vitamin A. And this is the retinoic acid.
Retinoids - are esters of retinoic acid. For ease of understanding: retinoids - retinol, as it were "impure".
At the cellular level works retinoic acid (ie retinol), it is able to connect to almost any receptor cells of the skin and let them know that let's, friends, behave like a young man.
Retinoids also need to go through several transformations to apply to retinoic acid. And the more of these intermediate transformations must pass a retinoid, the weaker the effect of it.
Known since ancient times, but only recently in cosmetics
Just make a reservation: for me, "recent discovery" of the active ingredients in cosmetics - which is not yet 50 years old. So yes: anti-aging properties of vitamin A - is a recent discovery scientists.
The use of retinoids for the organism was known to the priests of ancient Egypt: for those who suffered from night blindness, they recommended to eat the liver of animals, and crude. Topical retinoids studied for a long time, only in 1943 was published the first scientific work about treatment of acne, and only 16 years later began to use tretinoin in dermatology.
Tretinoin is used in the 60-80-ies in the treatment of acne and rashes on the skin. During this time it became clear that tretinoin helps to reduce the symptoms of aging skin, these results have been published only in 1983.
The discovery of a retinoid as an active ingredient in the outer media pushed the door open to manufacturers of cosmetics and pharmaceutical companies in the world of new possibilities - formed a class of cosmetic products with vitamin A.
How to work with the skin
They are all rather easily penetrate the top layer of skin (epidermis). But up to the dermis (This layer of skin we responsible for everything from acne to aging age) Reach only 20%.
Approximately 75% of the retinoid is in the epidermis, of which less than half are metabolized. Retinol is calm through the epidermis, with retinol efficacy depends on the rate and completeness of its transformation to retinoic acid.
So, our mighty retinoic acid gets into the skin cells. What is she doing? But that:
1) expressed reduces hyperpigmentation: From melanocytes to keratinocytes can be very strong union, it is seen by a pronounced pigment in the skin. Retinoic acid as a rokovuha interfering in their personal lives, keratocytes help to quickly ripen and cut ties with melanocytes, which are the only make that paint them in a dark color. Union collapses, keratinocytes has not darken, as before, but a person is satisfied with lightening hyperpigmented skin areas;
2) reduces skin dryness: Again we have starring keratinocytes, their maturation cycle accelerated by retinoic acid, and with them the accelerated renewal of the epidermis;
3) removes the small and medium-depth wrinkles: Acid affects collagen stimulation, and the epidermis becomes super-ability in retaining moisture. Delay moisture in the skin smoothes it, and wrinkles disappear.
Retinol - it's not for peelings
Yes, it accelerates cell renewal, because of that dead skin cells are sloughed off. But retinol - is not an exfoliant. Exfoliate - this is pobochka his main job (namely, "to maintain dialogue" with the cells and stimulate them to actively share and work productively). So that the effect of retinol should not be considered as an alternative to skin peeling. Cleansing is the purification, retinol is not engaged, it does not remove dirt, grease and dirt from the skin. I hope to understand this point :-)
Retinol makes the epidermis is thinner, but well seals the dermis.
How do these retinoids there?
More than 2500. Who will remember each retinoid in all their family - a person can safely put a monument :-) Beauticians and even 30% of the entire family of retinoids do not know, and not for nothing.
Natural or synthetic - which is better?
Now carefully read this paragraph. Of course, the natural work better. The same tretinoin best effect on the skin. But! All natural retinoids are destroyed by sunlight, and some of them due to contact with ultraviolet light and does become toxic. So that natural retinoids should be used only in the evening care.
Synthetic retinoids (examples known in cosmetics - isotretinoin, adapalene) is not afraid of ultraviolet, and they reduced the number of transformations to retinoic acid.
How to behave with retinol
Each of us is individual response to retinol. To accurately track the reaction of the skin to retinol, the first time use the funds to him once a week. And only in the evenings, because sunlight is basically a "extinguishes" the work of retinoic acid.
If your skin is not shocking familiarity (no irritation and dryness), then gradually transition to the use of retinol or three times a week. Once the skin gets used to it - all, the victory, you can use retinol to care at least every day.
To avoid peeling and redness, mix his first time with oil or moisturizer.
If you already have it so happened that due to the retinol you have a dry or peeling, the situation quickly correct serum with hyaluronic acid.
Apply the product with retinol should be dotted, avoiding the lips and area around the eyes. "Points" and struck him gently massaged rubbed into the skin.
A little about tandems retinol and retinoids
Soft retinoids with caffeine - a good option for sensitive skin. With such a tandem generate funds for the area around the eyes, and it is in our most vulnerable of all the sites. Such a tandem is quite successful fight with dark circles under the eyes, fatigue and photoaging.
Retinoid with hyaluronic acid - a direct safety cushion for those who have sensitive skin. Gialuronka not allow much retinoids roughhouse with your skin.
Trans-retinol (in packaging indicates "TR") - is a very serious kind of retinol, is found in the sera of the night. Not cheap, but copes with wrinkles, improves skin firmness and density, and in general gives the face a fresh look. And all these delights without any surprises in the form of skin irritation.
6 more useful facts about retinol and retinoids
1. Good product with retinol is always inside the package detailed instructions (or liner with all the details of the vehicle). If it does not - before you empty facility where retinol - a marketing lure, and its content is extremely small.
2. Want to retinol worked in the daytime - use synthetic retinol and together with a cream with SPF protection.
3. Retinol conflicts with vitamin C, they even "extinguish" each other, beneficial effects almost none. While they managed to make friends only Sesderma manufacturer (they are very proud of its advanced formula of "friendship" of these two vitamins, big fellows, actually).
4. Retinol, and retinoids have a long and systematically.
5. If not previously stalikivalis work retinol or retinoids, and still afraid of his unpredictable the behavior of the skin - start with a night balm or emulsions, where, for example, no longer content retinaldehyde 0,1%. Can be something to look at Avene, this company I love their honesty - they never exaggerate a result, the promise of their products they are honest, sensible, adequate.
6. Due from banks should be bought only in the event that there is a part of the encapsulated retinol (ie, microcapsules). The fact that the means of canned retinol quickly fizzles out due to contact with air. Yes, a very harmful component :-)
In general, about retinol and retinoids's not even fit in 10 volumes :-) Subject extensive, even has a separate forum of fans of these derivatives of vitamin A. And if you are interested about them material - put a "thumbs up" to the article.
On all questions write me messages VC group or in direkt in Instagrame
