Oil - one of the oldest cosmetic products, and one of the most important. We need not only dry, but also oily skin. Reduced lipid barrier, thereby prolonging us youth protection from harmful microorganisms and ultraviolet. The secret of beauty, health and youth, which give us the oil - fatty acids.
In the last article I spoke only of unsaturated fatty acids in the composition of oils (omega-3, omega-6, omega-7 and omega-9). Who missed the sight of this huge and important for all material - a reference to it in the end.
Today let's talk about serious guys from fatty acids: they are resistant to rancidity, disciplined, not amenable to rapid oxidation and elegantly protect our skin to form on it a thin and breathable film. We are talking about saturated fatty acids.
stearic acid
Its mission: to create a shielding effect on the skin - a protective film that protects the skin from ultraviolet radiation and other external influences. It is also involved in the restoration of the hydro-lipid layer.
Stearic acid is present in our skin, but the body is unable to synthesize its own, need replenishment from the outside. Its content in lipids of the sebaceous glands and the stratum corneum is about 10%.
The oil emulsions with a high content of stearic acid gives a good sliding effect, protects the skin from UV and other external impacts due to the formation of the protective film on the skin (this effect is called shielding).
Most of stearic acid is contained in the four oils: shea (45%), mango (42%), cocoa (35%) and cupuaçu (33%).
At the stearic acid has one drawback. Yes, it is good to protect the skin and restores the lipid barrier, and mostly quietly tolerated by the skin. However, the stearic acid increases inside the cell membrane lipid layer, because of this, they become less flexible, which greatly hinders the outflow of sebum in the pores. Thus, stearic acid forms comedogenic effect.
lauric acid
Its mission: to the maximum to protect the skin from harmful bacteria and fungus.
This champion of the antimicrobial action of all fatty acids. Most found in coconut oil (48%) and babassu oil (40%). With lauric acid oil is very easily absorbed and distributed very well on the skin. Creams with coconut oil or babassu oil make the skin soft, smooth and protected as much as possible.
There is one serious "but" in these oils - the presence of myristic acid. It just clogs the skin pores. Myristic acid makes coconut oil comedogenic, because therein the content of the acid is 19% (in babassu oil - 15%). Although chemists and fighting over the derivation of coconut oil with a minimum content of myristic acid on the face of such cosmetics is still better not to apply. But on the hair or body - can be used absolutely quiet! No unpleasant consequences will be.
palmitic acid
Its mission: to protect dry and mature skin.
Palmitic acid - is that with age becomes less than the stratum corneum. In young age its content is 37%, and from 30 years the concentration of palmitic acid in the stratum corneum to become smaller and smaller every year.
Cosmetics with oils containing palmitic acid is used in anti-aging care. For dry and mature skin suitable high concentration of the fatty acid to the fatty - no more than 13%.
A large proportion of palmitic acid contained in oils: cocoa (27%), baobab (22%), avocado (19%), wheat germ (19%), marula, olive and Argan (13%).
Oily skin suitable oil with palmitic acid: babassu and soy (11%), coconut, sesame seeds and borage (9%).
On everything today. In the final part of oil will examine those that are unique in their composition. Spoiler: Olive oil, for example, is not the champion of the content of vitamin E, as is commonly believed. And what kind of oil accelerates cell renewal, while at the same time protects against germs - no one would guess.
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First part. It is important to know in skin care: as a working oil in cosmetics
