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Does the concept of resistance is due to the quality of the perfume? Should I categorically accuse perfumery chain stores that sold expensive bottle, and the smell is not felt within 10 minutes after the pshiknuli? And can be forgery-resistant? This article will try as much as possible to cover all the questions on the stability of the perfume. And as usual - in plain language.
For the most attentive readers - a nice bonus at the end of the article :-)
Let's kopnom in the very essence of resistance perfume, touch on physics course and see why the same flavor of someone after a few minutes he did not hear the second he makes itself felt for months, while the third is revealed after each puff on the skin differently.
Ingredients
Perfume, eau de toilette, eau de cologne and the rest of perfume compositions - is mixture of odoriferous substances and solvent (Some perfumers add more dye in the form of aqueous solutions, just for the beauty of fragrance is not affected).
All components of the perfume, sooner or later evaporate. But we are more interested in fragrances. evaporation speed of odoriferous substances called volatility.
Resistance perfume - this is the parameter that is opposed to the volatility.
Each fragrance of different molecular weight. The heavier fragrance, the slower it will evaporate.
A small example. Consider a molecular weight of citral (lemon flavor) and sandalora (wood, sandalwood aroma). Many of you know that citrus evaporate quickly, so go in the top notes. All data from the Givaudan ingredients (it is used all the perfumers).
Sandal citrus harder, so it will last longer and evaporate. This is indicated by the data complete volatility component with a blotter (paper strips). Notice in the screenshot above, there is a parameter "Tenacity on blotter": Citral completely evaporates from the surface during 12 hours and sandalor - 3 weeks.
olfactory profile
ingredient Weight - it is the tip of the iceberg in durability perfume. Many fragrant substances have almost the same structure and mass. But the interaction with other fragrances they change their properties. "Heavy" woody components in the perfume composition can evaporate within a couple of hours, and "light" cherry (with which Tom Ford still sad) Can not leave our clothes or skin during the day.
Perfumes insufficient information from suppliers by resistance components. They are important, both as a whole behaves composition: as will be disclosed olfactory profile for a certain time.
For us, ordinary users of perfume, such information presented in the form of olfactory pyramid: This is the very top (evaporate quickly), Secondary (less quickly evaporate) And base (more resistant) notes.
And then, you should not rely on olfactory pyramid. She no longer needed in order to evaluate the work of the perfumer: the way he dealt with the composition than can surprise people, adding, for example, patchouli (will be felt unpleasant damp earth or not). How to behave intermolecular bonds of odoriferous substances define professional perfumer.
A great example (it now shop good discount) - Roberto Verino Gold Diamond. Go and check out the olfactory pyramid. At first glance it may seem that he is weak on the resistance.
Top notes of black currant, mandarin and grapefruit. It would seem that, after reading the above first we uchuem primarily currants or citrus.
However, the smell is very volatile. He may first tune penetrating floral aroma of oranges, and maybe even reveal how the berry pie, and picks up more blueberries than currants. And that he had disclosed to the skin. On clothes very different feel berry jam and a little vanilla.
Why it happens? And because this game Summer gourmet flavors joins patchouli, which does not allow the flavor to become cloying and too sweet, making it a little dryish. And unpredictable dictate tonka bean disclosure in the notes of the heart.
But the most interesting thing - the aroma is kept safely 10 hours (on the clothes - even longer).
Thus, even olfactory profile will not help us to determine the resistance.
Inability to perceive certain smells
This is called partial anosmia. The fact that people can not recognize any odors - absolutely normal.
Just anosmia is familiar to us. For example, when SARS: a bad cold, and besides, we do not feel the smell of tea with lemon, so more and flavor of food.
Our receptors has a working range of a certain smell. So do not feel all a second molecule.
Partial anosmia makes itself felt, if a man can not smell the "heavy" odoriferous substances (those. high molecular weight from 320 Yes). But everything quietly hear citrus fruits (and generally all that is in the top notes and heart notes).
Anything that affects the evaporation
And that we have from physics lessons. Affects the resistance (or evaporation):
1) The temperature: The higher it is, the more "rage," and the molecules change from liquid to gaseous state. It seems everything is simple, but it is precisely because of the temperature of the same fragrance is revealed to us in different ways (who cold and hot one skin), hence the advice to put on those places where the arteries and veins close to the skin pass (point ripple). Winter and summer fragrance with a bottle too different;
2) pressure: The lower, the more quickly will evaporate;
3) the wind, runningWe ventilate the room if we feel an unpleasant smell, someone still dries clothes in the street, because the fresh smell will not replace any softener. So what then wonder if the flavor is not stable in windy conditions? Or when, for example, went over. In windy weather, it is necessary to pshikat perfume on those places that hide outerwear;
4) Surface area: No wonder why otlivanty in such narrow cones? Because the smaller the surface area, the slower will evaporate. Who does not believe, can pour a glass of water on the floor and see that a large area of water evaporate faster than most circle.
Leather
Do not forget that our skin is a powerful protection system: all strangers expel sweat and sebum, not to mention the temperature, which regulate the blood vessels. For this reason, resistance flavor objectively verifiable clothes.
Here, all the above reasons, and affect the resistance. As you can see, it is not so simple. It is easier, of course, accuse retailers of forgery :-)
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