Surely you've heard or read somewhere about the fact that if you use a long time with the same cream, then it stops working due to habituation of the skin to him. Or vice versa: tightness and dryness of the skin after washing your hands is attributed to the fact that the skin needs a nourishing cream, as She got used to it and can not live without him.
In fact, it is a myth. Moisturizing and nourishing creams with low structure (and that glycerol and some types of oils) Work only on the skin surface. Deeper they penetrate because The same is not glycerol transdermal component. However, without glycerol it is quite difficult and expensive to create funds's Skin, it will still be present in the composition (although at lower concentrations).
Good working cream must satisfy two conditions:
1) glycerol is not in the first three-five in the composition;
2) the presence of transdermal components.
On the second point to tell in some detail.
What is transdermal component in cosmetics?
Simply put, this "carrier" ingredient's Skin funds into the deep layers of the skin. Without it, the bioactive components in cosmetics remain on the skin surface, and no useful effect will not do.
Many of you know the structure of the skin. But I'm a little again. The skin consists of three layers: the epidermis (outer layer) and the dermis (there occur all regeneration processes, i.e. cell renewal, all the rejuvenation and improvement of skin related to the dermis) and subcutaneous fiber.
The epidermis consists of several more barrier layers which protect the deeper layers of the skin from infection and other aggressive external influences. It is the "top" of the layers of the epidermis - the water-lipid mantle of the skin. It consists of dead skin cells, water and secretions of the sebaceous and sweat glands.
Water-lipid mantle protects us against the penetration of water-soluble particles. Overcoming this layer, in cosmetics components are faced with even more trivial task - to pass through the remaining layers of the epidermis, which have a very dense structure and does not allow large molecules to penetrate dermis.
Incidentally, hyaluronic acid in the cosmetic has a large molecular chain components without transdermal it useless.
Known conductors into the deep layers of the skin:
1) vitamin E: It is not a large molecular structure, plus the fat soluble, pass well through lipid mantle;
2) alcohols, surfactants and fruit acids: Create a breach in the barrier layers of the skin, through which the bioactive components. Standard "hardcore" delivery method components in the skin, but you should not overdo it on such corrosive substances, or restore the epidermal barrier is difficult and time consuming (especially with age);
3) monounsaturated oleic acid: Unlike surfactants, alcohols, and fruit acids does not destroy the lipid layer and "thins" it. Barrier layer receives more liquid texture formed gaps through which the active ingredients penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin;
4) salicylic acid: Due to additional carbon group, it is fat soluble and penetrates well into the deeper layers. An essential ingredient for those who suffer from blackheads and acne;
5) glycolic acid: She has a very low molecular weight and pH level, all this allows to penetrate deeply into the skin. The basic component in the fight against hyperpigmentation, acne and other skin imperfections;
6) liposomes: a real breakthrough in cosmetology. These are special "containers" within which - active substance. liposome walls are composed of cholesterol and phospholipids, ie, of all that what is in our lipid barrier and cell membranes. When the cream is distributed in the skin, the liposomes pass through the stratum corneum and fuse with the organic lipid matrix skin (due phospholipids). Already there is revealed and active ingredients are released slowly in the deeper layers of the skin, "capsule".
Liposomes - a very cool way to delivery to the skin of retinol and vitamin C, as they oxidize rapidly when exposed to air and light. Vitamin C is one of the so generally inadequate components, chemists have created with him a few tens of molecular forms, not all of them are stable (and those that are stable - expensive).
Liposomes - one of the objective reasons why's Skin funds are expensive. Almost every reputable cosmetic brand patented its forms liposomes. But that's another topic for an article.
In comments write reviews of cosmetics with some components of the transdermal interest to you. Or go through the liposomal cosmetics in the following articles?
If you are closer to these lines have not fallen asleep, and vice versa - like the components of the material in makeup, then put a "thumbs up" to the article, so I knew you interesting continuation of this column or not:-)
Even more useful, from perfume to life hacking, I had to Pintereste. Come, learn and be inspired! ;-)
On all questions write me messages VC group. Also subscribe to my InstagramIn storys I talk about their purchases, and my opinion of them, you can learn, without waiting for the publication of the article.
see also: Chic hair for $ 100? Really! Overview Korean filler for hair (+ fotoinstruktsiya)
