Today we talk about the acid in cosmetics, what strange abbreviations AHA and BHA, as well as which of the acid are effective in skin care. Will not affect the hyaluronic acid it I have devoted a separate article a long time ago.
Remember how quickly the difference between AHA and BHA acids
AHA - soluble.
BHA - fat-soluble.
AHA varieties more than BHA.
I made you a cheat sheet of acids (if hard to see - click on the photo).
Why AHA
This fruit acids. Previously, they were simply called keratolytics - a substance that exfoliates dead skin cells. Marketers have decided that the word "keratolytics" unattractive, and the first time is not memorized. "Fruit acids" are remembered better. But now on the labels and in the articles "fruit acids" is replaced by the AHA.
It is noteworthy, but officially acid were approved by dermatologists only in the 90s. And people have used acid in the care of a thousand years: Cleopatra took baths of donkey milk in the Soviet Union did Kefir peeling to remove corns, a slice of lemon in the southern countries have used for skin whitening, Scandinavians so all big fans of cranberry masks.
Examples are numerous, but officially in cosmetology began using fruit acids relatively recently, when tightly began to study ichthyosis - a terrible skin disease, the man looks like Reptilians. Who's supposed to be - zaguglit, here I will not fold.
You do not have to memorize all kinds of fruit acids. Because it plays a major role in exfoliation or reducing age spots, as their acidity pH value is not so much the form of acids.
It is important to understand the working principleWhen fruit acid is contacted with the skin surface, it not only lowers the pH of the skin, but also binds calcium ions, which "glue" epidermal proteins. Due to the removal of calcium ions, the skin starts to peel off, leaving the surface of the skin cells, because all the strong intercellular communication were "shattered" fruit acids.
According to this principle works AHA-acids, it must be clear that you can not overdo tools on the skin, as well as the fact that the lower the pH of, the more sensitive the skin will after acid.
It is worth noting that some acid addition exfoliation can improve the skin in retaining moisture. It is capable, for example, lactic acid, it is a natural moisturizing factor.
The optimum pH value for the acids that can be used in home care: 3.5-4. This range of operation AHA acids visible effect and thus they are safe (no chemical burns or increased skin sensitivity).
If the pH below 3.5 and the concentration of acids in the media is no more than 50% - such means aggressive, may cause inflammation of the skin, they may be used beauticians, who were trained to work with a particular brand prof.kosmetiki.
Dermatologists operate with the means in which pH at the level 1 and at a very high concentration.
AHA in home care
We must start with the always mildly acidic agents (and a low concentration of not less than pH 4). If you start immediately with a strong acid, the agent may be distributed unevenly on the skin: Due to irregularities somewhere acids longer accumulate, and some portion of the skin - less. Because of this, you can degrade the visual effect or, even worse, exacerbate complications on the skin.
Acids is better to use in autumn and winter, because after their skin is sensitive to UV light. Or at least after the use of funds from the acids do not forget the sunscreen.
Why BHA acid
By BHA acids include salicylic acid only. On it you need to know the following.
First, it is simply a powerful preservative. Any cream with salicylic acid in the composition - you can not worry about contamination by bacteria or expiry.
Second, even despite the fact that salicylic acid gives scham of all bacteria, the skin is "white and fluffy" not aggressive, has a mild regulating effect on the skin.
Third, an indispensable component for owners of oily skin.
Salicylic acid works as follows. She is fat-soluble. When applied to the skin primarily destroys protein bridges between necrotic cells (exfoliation). At the same time salicylic acid begins to dissolve the oxidized fats on the skin surface and all microbes, including those responsible for the development of acne.
Salicylic acid dissolves fats so well that it is able to penetrate the sebaceous plug and clean them from all: sebum, bacteria and dirt. What is most interesting, unique floor acid, which is in the process neutralizes itself. If the fruit acids needed tonic or other means to restore the pH of the skin, it does not need anything for salitsilki.
Few people know, but salicylic acid lightens the skin, it is a side effect of exfoliation. So from pigmentation after inflammation and acne salitsilku can safely use.
It is necessary to distinguish between salicylic acid and black willow bark extract (which includes 10% salicylic acid) effect on performance. Black willow bark extract used in anti-aging facilities, and salitsilka - for the treatment of problematic and combination skin.
The following article will tell in detail about all kinds of fruit acids, and what can not be afraid to use right now. Also tell you about the delicate improved version of salicylic acid and why splash masks must necessarily have on the shelves in the bathroom (spoiler: they are working and replace several funds). If it is interesting - put your finger up on the story, not to miss the next material in the tape.
